China Babies
Just spent ten days traveling in China with my Tai Chi
Group, led by our teacher Dr. Chen and his wife. Our group
totaled six, four of which were students dedicated to practicing
this ancient Chinese form of exercise known as Tai Chi which
has its roots in martial arts. The trip was organized by
Dubai resident Dr. Chen as a way to further our knowledge
in Tai Chi and at the same time tour the main historic and
tourist sites of China. I had been pre appointed to record
our day to day itinerary, which I promise to get to in a
minute. However, looking back I now realize this was not
only an adventure of a lifetime and a great learning experience
but it was also a trip of many firsts.
To begin with this was my first trip to a Communist Country,
although with all the political changes China has undergone
over the last decade it is quite clear that the country
is marching to a different beat, a new rhythm is ringing
out across Tiananmen Square right under the steady gaze
of Chairman Mao. I kept asking myself "where are all
the communist and comrades", what I did see were thriving
businesses run by crafty entrepreneurs.
Next on my list of firsts was an unexpected viewing of
the planets Saturn and Jupiter. On an evening stroll through
the former Chinese capital of Xian on a plaza pinned in
by the old Bell and Drum Towers were a group of very large
mobile telescopes lined up side by side pointing into the
night sky at a few faint stars, barely visible to the naked
eye. These pinpricks of light turned out to be two mighty
giants of our solar system and for a few Dirhams you could
steal a peak at these magnificent spheres. Mind you these
were not your average run of the mil telescopes, they were
over twenty feet long, the rings of Saturn and the moons
surrounding Jupiter seemed close enough to touch.
The Chinese undoubtedly are a people and country on the
move, so it should be no surprise if you are in a hurry
and in Shanghai and want to get to the city center from
the airport in just a few minutes then hop on board the
new magnetic bullet train. Again, this was a first for me
and also the fastest I have ever traveled on land. This
sleek ultra modern mode of transportation effortlessly rips
up to 431 kilometers an hour in just a matter of minutes.
It is a smooth ride and before you know it you have arrived
at your destination, a total distance of 40 kilometers covered.
Another first would be picking tea, before this trip I
wasn't even sure if tea came from a bush or tree; I grew
up in the city. Somewhere three hundred kilometers south
of Shanghai on a picturesque mountain side in Zhejiang province
our group was led up a hillside to a neatly arranged patch
of tea groves. I can now say with confidence "tea comes
from a bush" and we were instructed to pick only the
new buds growing on the upper branches. It is painstaking
work which nets little results, after an hour we had only
about two handfuls, enough for twenty cups.
Picking tea with Chen's mum
When it comes to food, well almost all of the dishes we
ate were a first. Apart from the expected noodles, dumplings
and rice we were offered quite a few new delicacies. To
start with was breakfast porridge made up of several different
beans and nuts. This is served with sugar and was very hearty.
Raw sugar cane was served as a dessert at a dinner in a
private house; it is a bit awkward to eat but I found it
quite delicious.
We were also served what looked like a green hamburger
patty but was actually a vegetarian item which was made
out of a local plant, steamed and stuffed with sweat beans;
I could munch on those all day! Tofu was made in to many
variations to mention, one version was aged, I passed on
that one. In general the food was plentiful and fantastic
and none of us in the group suffered any backlashes.
So on with the itinerary.
DAY ONE (21 March)
Aafter an uneventful sleepless night flight from Dubai we
began our approach to Beijing airport, peaking out the airplane's
windows revealed a stark barren brown landscape with tall
buildings in the distance hovering above the haze.
Getting out of the airport was fast and easy. We were
then whisked away for an unscheduled stop in a small village
in the countryside about an hour outside of Beijing. There
we visited the eclectic house of a Chinese family whose
home was littered with numerous medical apparatuses. Still
droopy eyed from the flight we were all given a free medical
checkup, blood work and treatment using newly developed
technologies. We were pricked, filled with laser light,
given electric massages and shaken by a machine that vibrates
your entire body from the feet up. Our host was friendly
and generous and by the time we left for lunch I did feel
refreshed. We dined in a small restaurant in the village
center; the food came fast and was placed on the glass spinning
wheel in the middle of the table. It was the first of many
feasts and as Chinese etiquette dictates the soup was served
last.
DAY TWO (22 March)
Temple of Heaven Building in the morning
Our first official full day started early, we were up and
out of the hotel by 6:30. After breakfast we made our way
through the chilly crowded streets to the Temple of Heaven
which was conveniently located near our lodgings. On the
way we passed many children on their way to school and learned
straight off that the Chinese start their day much earlier
than us in the west. Schooldays begin at 6:30 and can last
as long as ten to twelve hours.
The Temple of Heaven was all that the name implies, it
is China's largest existing complex of ancient sacrificial
buildings. It was built so the emperor could worship Heaven.
The minute you enter its gates a calm replaces the hustle
and flow of the outside world. Our first purpose at the
Temple was not to worship but do Tai Chi. And so we began,
hands with gloves cutting a gentle movement through the
chilled air to the slow rhythmic music familiar to us Tai
Chi students. There we were four westerns and our teacher
moving in sync as we demonstrated our ability to perform
this olden form of martial arts. Was this really happening
or was it a dream, at one point I just wasn't sure, it all
felt so transcendent. Before long we had joined a larger
group of elderly Chinese and thus my goal was complete,
we were doing Tai Chi in China with the Chinese, classic!
Interesting enough, the main attraction in this complex
was not the beautiful temple structures but all the going
ons in the adjacent park. There was an array of groups performing
every exercise under the sun. Whether it is waltzing, aerobics,
flag waving, chanting or tree rubbing all could be had.
How about walking backwards? They say it is good for the
back or you could try my favorite, shrieking. Every few
minutes as you are walking about the park you let out an
emotional packed yelp, as loud as you like. I have since
adopted this exercise while I am driving down Sheikh Zayed
road and find it most therapeutic.
Later on in the afternoon we made our way via a very clean
public transportation system to Tiananmen Square. This was
one of the most recognizable sites in all of China thanks
to CNN repeatedly showing the image of Chairman Mao's portrait
every time it refers to this country of a billion plus inhabitants.
My mind quickly flashed back to the 1989 and that one brave
chap who stood down a tank. Whatever happened to him? Anyway,
before long we were in the Forbidden City.
The Forbidden City is the world's largest palace complex
and contains the biggest collection of preserved ancient
wooden structures on the planet. It is overwhelming at best
and took us the remaining part of the day to cover its intricate
courtyards, temples, plazas and gardens. Even after hours
of viewing this amazing site we were only three quarters
of the way done. As big as it is there are still lots of
tourist to bump into and walk into your perfectly framed
photo. However, in the rare moments when you are left standing
alone in an alleyway or inside a tree covered courtyard
and all the noises and chatter fades into silence something
magical occurs. You feel yourself transported back in time,
to a slower peaceful pace of living, it was as if the walls
were willing to reveal their secrets, the energy was overpowering.
At one point as our group was making its way through yet
another courtyard, Tai Chi music suddenly came on the speakers.
As if in a hypnotic trance we all immediately began our
routine to the delight of onlookers.
Walls of the forbidden city
Dinner was spent at the historic Fang Shan restaurant
located at the base of North Sea Park which features traditional
dynasty style food. Some of the last Emperor and his infamous
Mother in law's favorite dishes are still served.
DAY THREE (23 March)
The next morning was spent on the Great Wall of China. We
arrived early before it became crowded and quickly secured
a place to do Tai Chi, it was on a flat section of the wall
just prior to where it ascends straight up the mountain.
We all managed to hold our balance against a relentless
wind, bright sun and uneven cobble stones to complete both
the twenty four and forty two step routines. The wall appears
to defy gravity as it stretches and hugs the mountainside
as if its life depends on staying in place. It resembles
the ultimate rollercoaster ride gone mad, to think it was
made so long ago and without today¡¯s technologies.
Before long, busloads of tourist started to arrive, mostly
Chinese, suddenly you found yourself shoulder to shoulder
with other adventurers all vying for the ultimate photo
opportunity. 
Taichi On the Great Wall
Before departing Beijing on the overnight train to Xian
we dined on Peking duck which was hand carved at our table
then rolled in special crepe like pancakes.
DAY FOUR(24 March)
Xian was an unexpected surprise; this former capital city
has a charm that is distinctly Chinese. Unlike modern Beijing,
Xian looks and feels like old world China. It survived eleven
dynasties including the prosperous Tang Dynasty. The second
you step out of the train station you are face to face with
the imposing ancient wall that surrounds the entire city.
Before I could satisfy my desire to explore what lay on
the other side of the seemingly impregnable barrier we were
whisked away to view the famed Terra Cotta Warriors. 
Terra Cotta Warriors
Not more than an hour's drive out of the city stands these
mighty warriors housed in several buildings that make up
the Xiangyang Museum. Despite our slightly annoying tour
guide who mistakenly kept calling them "Calcutta Warriors",
this is an impressive site. Over seven thousand soldiers,
horses, and chariots have been discovered thus far and nobody
knows how many are still left buried in the fields. There
is a heavy feeling to this place, one cannot help but feel
sorry for all the life size soldiers that appear to be left
at the alter, never getting the chance to fulfill their
destiny and defend their divine Emperor's honor. And what
exactly was going on in the mind of the creator of the statues
Emperor Qin Shi Huang in the first place? Some say he was
insane or was it just an unhealthy fear of death that drove
him to amass such an impressive if not ghostly army of clay?
That evening was spent in the Muslim section of the city
on a lively street cluttered with pubs and restaurants that
featured outdoor grills whose smoke drifted up past the
red lanterns strung across the road. We ate at a ruckus
joint where the drinks were plentiful and the atmosphere
buzzing. The food was unique to the region and very hot!
DAY FIVE (25 March)
Before sunrise the next day we were heading to a section
of the old wall where we were told Tai Chi is practiced.
Arriving early we found a stunning park with a creek running
under circular shaped bridges along side of the ancient
wall, this was a place to prop up a canvas on an easel and
get the oils out. The slight mist hovering about only added
to the mood. We spotted some Tai Chi activity on the upper
region of the park close to the wall, once over the bridge
we traversed up a tree lined walkway littered with thousands
of cherry blossom peddles that created the effect of a recent
snowfall. We then claimed a spot next to where a few people
were preparing to do Tai Chi. I suddenly felt as if we had
invaded their territory. It was as if we were being sized
up, I wondered if we would meet their approval. After doing
the twenty four steps it was clear we would be accepted
into their group and that we were not there just to take
pictures. We could not help but cause a minor commotion,
how often do westerners get up so early and then perform
Tai Chi, granted we were novices compared to the Chinese,
but it was still impossible not to stand out. After awhile
you get used to the curious staring and get on with the
exercise.
Most of the rest of the day was spent on a relaxing excursion
to the Famen Temple, which is located about 140 kilometers
from Xian in the town of Famen. Rolling green hills with
terraced fields and many former cave homes were spotted
along the way. The domineering tower is located on a hill
at the center of town in a Buddhist Temple and is known
for what was found buried for thousands of years under its
base, this famous relic happens to be a finger bone. The
bone was once part of the hand of Sakamani, the founder
of Chinese Buddhism.
Late afternoon was spent drifting in and out of shops
located in the very charming artist market back in Xian.
Dinner was at a dumpling house that make over one hundred
different varieties. My favorite was the pork and walnut.
After dinner we were driven to the Shaanxi Grand Opera House
for a superb show of music and dances representing the Tang
Dynasty, not to be missed if you are visiting Xian.
DAY SIX (26 March)
Having opted for a plane instead of a train to Shanghai
the next day gave us much needed time to tackle this city
on steroids. After making hotel arrangements we were let
loose to explore all Shanghai has to offer. Our first stop
was the old city, now a thriving shopping and tourist destination
it still offers a hint of what old Shanghai must have been
like oh so many years ago. The famous tea house stands tall
in a moat of water and offers connoisseurs a selection of
the finest teas accompanied by live classical Chinese music.
Adjacent from the tea house is the over four hundred year
old Yuyuan Gardens which provided an escape from the hectic
city, its hard to believe you are still in Shanghai as you
stumble from one section of the garden to the next. It is
easy to become disorientated as you are led deeper and deeper
into the complex across stone bridges and under circular
doorways, each step along the way reveals a new view or
pleasing scent. Spring blooms were everywhere.
We then headed for the Bund, a river front area dominated
by British architecture from the nineteen twenties and thirties.
This spot not only provides excellent views of the new city
rising up across the water but was also an outstanding spot
for some afternoon Tai Chi. It was the second time around
at doing the twenty four steps with all eyes focused on
the river and away from all the buildings and onlookers
that the delicate power of Tai Chi came through. Where this
peaceful energy comes from is not clear but when it does
it is most welcomed and totally refreshing like a gentle
spring shower on an open thirsty meadow. We then followed
the river walkway to the tunnel entrance heading to the
Oriental Pearl Tower.
Crossing under the river turned out to be an event in
itself; we boarded a small futuristic pod and were entertained
with a light and laser show with the walls of the tunnel
being used as a backdrop, one more reason to love this city!
After joining friends for a quick bite we were packed in
an elevator headed to the top of the Pearl Tower, a structure
that dominates the skyline and looks like a giant Christmas
tree ordainment. The night view revealed a metropolis equaled
to New York, only this one was animated with vibrant colors
emanating from the tops of high-rises. We then finished
our day walking down Nanjing Road looking for something
other than noodles to eat.
DAY SEVEN (27 March)
After morning Tai Chi at People's Park we enter the Shanghai
Museum, from the outside this round structure looks like
a giant pot with handles. The strange outer design is completely
forgiven once you start walking around the inside, can you
say Feug Shui. From the layout, lighting, and different
earth tone colors on the various walls someone intentionally
designed a rather smoothing if not ascetic home for some
amazing art. This was my kind of museum, well contained,
doable in an hour and packed with really cool stuff. The
pottery was beyond words and the bronzes appeared to be
lifelike.
The rest of the day was spent on a public bus heading
to our final destination, a small town call Meichen located
300 kilometers south of Shanghai. By the time we had reached
Meichen the landscape had changed dramatically, endless
fields of blooming yellow linseed plants created a checkerboard
effect across the valleys tightly enclosed by sharp protruding
dark green mountains. That evening was spent at Dr. Chen's
parent's home; a dinner three days in the making was served
and was one of the best meals of the trip, complete with
homemade rice wine.
DAY EIGHT (28 March)
Morning came early the next day as we stumbled out of our
hotel rooms and onto the narrow alley way en route to the
rivers edge to perform Tai Chi. It was a direct walk from
our Hotel to the river passing right through the middle
of the town. Meichen is the kind of charming town where
everything happens out in the open, cooking, washing, repair
work, shops, all can be seen, felt and smelled as you pass
through the streets. As we made our way school kids were
filling up on breakfast at roadside cafes and snacking at
food stalls, surprised faces and double looks were the norm
as we glanced their way or snuck a quick photo. This is
a small town and Western visitors are rare. It wasn't long
before we arrived by the river, after some quick warm-ups
it became quite evident that this city has some of the most
advanced and skilled practitioners of Tai Chi we had encountered
on our journey. I struggled and groaned during the warm
up to touch my toes as one elderly woman stood effortlessly
next to a street pole, one leg on the ground, the other
straight up the pole. That morning we did the twenty four,
forty two, forty (twice), and then received some pointers
from the group leaders.
After
a fulfilling breakfast we were taken across the river to
a Buddhist temple and gardens passing pearl farms that used
emptied plastic bottles strung across the water to mark
the spot where within a few years pearls will be harvested.
The weather was perfect, clear skies and a warm sun. The
later part of the day was spent casually wandering thru
small alleys and outdoor markets, before long we were completely
taken in by this offbeat relaxing town which was quite the
contrast to Shanghai.
DAY NINE (29 March)
Our Tai Chi session by the river the next day had tur
ned
into more of an event, anyone and everyone who practices
this exercise heard we were in town and turned out to assist
and observe this historic occasion. The numbers had all
but doubled from the day before. It was as if we had become
a tourist attraction. One of the new attendees turned out
to be a Master Tai Chi practitioner, his name was Jiong.
He was kind and yet carried an inner strength that flowed
in every movement he made. Without the use of any spoken
words he successfully communicated proper step movements,
leg and hand positions and gave us suggestions and exercises
to help us feel the flow and increase the energy. All of
the leaders and helpers were extremely generous with their
time and knowledge and made our Tai Chi experience an unforgettable
one.
The remaining part of the day was spent at a farmhouse
nestled along the mountains in a very rural part of China.
It was there we hiked in the mountains and picked tea. This
excursion provided us with an unexpected first hand understanding
into a unique and very remote country lifestyle filled with
significance and culture. As we headed back to Meichen along
a dusty bumpy road I quickly realized how little I know
about one of life's most precious gift, land and how to
cultivate it into a thriving and productive resource. The
evening was capped off with yet another incredible feast
then a visit to a mahjong house where we indulged in a few
games.
DAY TEN (30 March)
We were all packed up and heading for Shanghai airport and
I assure you we all were taking with us much more then the
few souvenirs we collected along the way.
This trip was brilliantly organized by Dr. Chen and his
wife and it is with much thanks and appreciation we owe
them for showing us China in a way few have ever seen it.
John Hall
05-April-2006
